Bivy Camping in Antarctica

Camping in Antarctica.  Photo credit:  Albert Chan

Most travellers to Antarctica sleep in well-furnished rooms on the expedition ships, yet few lucky ones in selected departures (approximately 2,500 people a year) got to camp on Antarctic ice for a night.  I was among them during my visit to Antarctica.

Many expedition departures may include one night of camping.  However, the wind and ice conditions change all the time.  There was no guarantee that camping can actually happen as everything is weather dependent.  The weather co-operated and we got the announcement from the crew that our camping could go ahead as planned.

After dinner, we gathered for our zodiac transport to Ronge Island.  No food of any kind was allowed and we could only bring water with us.  Pursuant to regulations stipulated by the Antarctic Treaty, visitors could not take or leave anything whatsoever during our visit.  Our group brought along a couple of buckets for toilets, and surrounded the buckets with ice walls for privacy.  At the end of the camping expedition, everything, including the buckets and their contents were brought back to the ship.

Setting up for bivy camping.   Photo credit:  Albert Chan

There were altogether fifty of us and approximately half chose tent camping, yet the other half (me included) chose bivy camping.  Instead of sleeping inside a tent, we slept outside in the open.  I dug a rectangular hole in the ice, put a mat on it, then inserted my sleeping bag inside a bivy (bivouac sack) and put myself into the sleeping bag.  That became my sleeping shelter for the night.

Beautiful sunset.  Photo credit:  Albert Chan

The sun slowly set, but the twilight lingered through the night.  There were penguins walking around visiting our campsite.  I captured a penguin standing in front of beautiful twilight with icy mountain, glaciers and calm water.  Very surreal and peaceful.  It was noisy as the sound of the wind and ice was heard all night. 

By around 6 am, we started gathering all our belongings and used the zodiacs to transport us back to the ship.  I was so delighted to have a warm breakfast and share our camping experience with each other at the breakfast table.

Frankly, I was not sure how much sleep I had that night.  All I could feel was wind and cold temperatures. It was indeed not a comfortable experience, yet I would go back to re-experience it in a heartbeat.  Bivy camping was extremely special.  It provided an opportunity to feel the raw nature at its best.  In retrospect, the experience showed the importance of preserving Antarctica for future generations.  I was truly fortunate to be part of this extraordinary adventure!